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DAILY LIFE Despite East Africa's size and diversity, daily life follows remarkably similar patterns throughout much of the region.In general, rural rhythms set the beat: life is centred around tending small farm plots, and money -especially for paying school fees or building a house - is a constant concern.Exceptions include Kenya, which is notable for its abundance of nongovernmental organisations, many headed by women, and Uganda, where women play prominent roles in educational and literary circles.With the exception of Tanzania, where local chieftaincies were abolished following independence, tribal identity and tribal structures are generally strong - sometimes with disastrous consequences, as seen in the Rwandan genocide.

Also, many of the AIDS clinics and counselling centres that exist still operate anonymously; if a sign were hung out, many victims wouldn't enter for fear of recognition.Otherwise, clashes between traditional and modern lifestyles are generally fairly low profile, with outside indications often limited to nothing more than the occasional disparaging remark about the neighbours.The spectre of AIDS looms on the horizon throughout East Africa (see p33).Women always work, either outside the home or tending to the family and garden, and many students don't have the opportunity to finish secondary school.Throughout the region tourism provides employment opportunities, though good positions are for the lucky few, and both unemployment and underemployment are rife.

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